Jalan Jaksa Under Threat
Mar 28th, 2008, in Society, by RossRoss fears that Jalan Jaksa in Jakarta is going to suffer re-development.
Jalan Jaksa at Risk?
Last month I had a chat with an expat on Jalan Jaksa who told me he’d seen plans to develop the famous little street, including a huge hypermarket on its corner with Jalan Wahid Hasyim.
I should state at this point that the talk occurred during my once-a-week afternoon visit, when – contrary to wishful thinking among hostiles – I have three or four beers and head for home before nightfall. So it was a clear-headed chat, not one of those rambling discourses that ensue as the night rolls towards chucking-out time.
Jalan Jaksa.
Has anyone else heard of this proposed development?
It would change the character of Jaksa, which is one of the few places in town where non-rich bules can enjoy a beer at a reasonable price. A Carrefour-type emporium would have a knock-on effect, bring in glossy catering outlets and quite possibly squeeze the little cafes out of business. Even now, there is a quite posh hotel under construction at the far end. Doesn’t Jakarta have enough such plush institutions- let’s leave Jaksa for the back-packing kids to save their pennies at.
I have to admit a certain fondness for the street. On my first night in Jakarta, quite a number of years ago, I was dropped there by a taxi-driver to whom I’d managed to communicate my need for cheap accommodation. As I was about to enter the Hotel Jhody, – a snip at Rp 40,000 per night – a small man rushed up and warned me not to waste my money.
“My place very good, only Rp 20,000, free coffee in the morning!”
Too weary from a twenty-hour plus flight to argue, I accepted this gracious offer, and ultimately found myself in a room with a grotty mattress on the floor, a broken window and a fan whose power was waning even as I switched it on. I also of course had to figure out how to use a kamar mandi (Indonesian bathroom). Not a great start, nor did the free coffee materialise the next day!
However, I followed my nose and discovered the Hotel Tator, not five-star (Rp 45,000 per night) but clean, and a real bed, and honest, helpful staff. Although too timid to venture far, Jaksa became my home for just over three weeks, till I got more permanent accommodation.
During those twenty four days, I didn’t have a TV in my room, but hardly needed it. The pavements beyond the Tator, and the establishments which crowded along them, afforded me not only visual entertainment but also useful insights into what lay in store for a “new kid on the block”.
Thus, while aware that time does not stand still, with new joints opening up and others undergoing regular re-incarnations in new guises, I’d be sad to see Jalan Jaksa transformed into a glitzy, upmarket shopping centre.
It has been said, by back-packers passing through, that the milieu there evokes images of Mel Gibson’s movie, “The Year of Living Dangerously”. I’m not sure if that is an accurate impression, for I was elsewhere in 1965, but Jaksa IS different. Can an “atmospheric preservation order” be enacted as one of SBY’s lasting legacies?
148 Comments on “Jalan Jaksa Under Threat”
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MbakAditya says:
Ah Ross, don’t get sore, one day you may sell a book.
I’ve already signed up.
I’d forgotten just how much you have in common with little Achmad.
Actually I think I have so much in common with Treespotter, whilst diametrically opposed on a couple of points, we are united in our belief that you are in fact a knobber.
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Achmad Sudarsono says:
MbakAditya,
Below the belt (sarung) to compare me to Ross.
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Sori for the upset ya?
Don’t want Ross to have a nocturnal emission do we?
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He doesn’t need us — he has his reflection — which is usually what triggers them (noctural emissions).
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dewaratugedeanom says:
Is the term ‘wog’ (worthy oriental gentleman) also offensive?
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Janma says:
Is the term ‘wog’ (worthy oriental gentleman) also offensive?
Tell ya what mate, why doncha try goin’ down the local deli in Brunswick and call a few of the locals there ‘wogs’ and see what happens?
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I always thought the “W” was for western and not worthy! That is not to say that oriental gentlemen are not worthy! Perhaps someone knows the proper and full history of this?
I would reckon offensive! And I concur with Janma on this one! If you have the testicular fortitude then Brunswick would be as good a place as any to test out your question…good luck with that!
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Don’t forget though that in the ’80s Greeks, Italians, even Yugoslavs in Australia started calling themselves wogs. Depends on how you say it.
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@ MbakAditya
Actually, I think if I am Indonesia, the I am the one with the power to decide whether I mean any offense in the use of the term, but again, we will agree”¦blah blah blah.Your comment should have read “Actually, I am Indonesian, the(n) I am the one with the power to decide whether I mean any offence………….Blah blah
I say this because there was no thinking!!! You can not decide if people will or won’t take offense. It’s not about you dear, its about your actions and there impact on others. Your attitute shows a complete lack of thinking and tact. There is a certain lack of sophistication and insensitivity if you beleive that what “you think” is “what is”.
One question……. if someone did take offence do you humbly and sincerely apologise or mutter under your breathe some other equally offensive comment.
Grow up and get with the program.
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No it shouldn’t, I know quite well what I meant mate.
I’m also quite aware that my “N” is sticking and can’t keep up with 150 WPM.
“I” sebelum “E” selain sesudah “C”Had you considered that Indonesians may politely tolerate unwashed and impolite bules?
When bule call us “ireng manise” (black-sweet) we just sit back and take it, but you want different rules for the bules?Now boil your head bule kecut.
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“Boil your head bule kecut” ?
Pretty nasty, MbakAditya.
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Now boil your head bule kecut.
auwww… somebody doesn’t take very kindly to being wrong hey!?
“unwashed and impolite bule’s” showing your real colors now hey brown girl not even manis… -
Rob said
Perhaps someone knows the proper and full history of this?
The story behind this is that the British in India used to call the locals all kinds of unspeakable names. Some of the latter got depressed because of this, so there were sanctions from the upper command stating that Indians were ‘worthy oriental gentlemen’. Hence the abbreviation.
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MbakAditya
I think the abuse just proves my point.
Your a tad unsophisticated, just like the people that racially vilify you and your fellow countrymen, and guess what, your still wrong!!!!! -
Farah says:
When bule call us “ireng manise” (black-sweet) we just sit back and take it, but you want different rules for the bules?
Now boil your head bule kecut.
Ireng that not so manise.. haha !!
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GJ Says:
April 11th, 2008 at 12:47 pm
MbakAdityaI think the abuse just proves my point.
Your a tad unsophisticated, just like the people that racially vilify you and your fellow countrymen, and guess what, your still wrong!!!!!A tad unsophisticated eh? If only you knew.
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On “bule” this article at Suara Surabaya radio suggests that “bule” just means ‘foreigner’ (of any race)
They are an American woman and on the right Jason Foo from Singapore, they both get called “bule”.
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David Jardine says:
To hell with the snobpack, Jaksa has been alright by me!
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zea says:
I have a ticket to Jakarta, but I not decided yet where to stay is it at Jalan Jaksa or Pekanbaru I’m going with my family hubby and 8 chidren range from 8 to 22 years, could you prospose me which hotel to stay that is safe for my family and the hotel rate is between Rp 50,000 to Rp 100,000 povided the hotel is walking distance to the shopping area and easy to have a muslim food. Also if you have anybody you know that I can rent a van
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MbakAditya says:
Let’s do this a little back to front.
Firstly the chances of any of the food you get being truly “halal” are very slim, and you would probably have to eat at McD’s continuously to stand a chance of getting anything that has been passed by the Chief Rabbi, though Roy’s Hair would know about that in more detail.
Secondly, I think if any of your older children are boys then having to glom on to their parents during a trip to Jakarta could be a little “boring”.
Thirdly, I can only assume that you live in Beirut to even consider “treating” your family to a holiday in Jaksa, yet alone a hotel from 50-100K – just how many people do you want to put in each room?
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Down and Out in Jalan Jaksa
http://www.peterloud.co.uk/indonesia/jalan_jaksa.htmlIt’s worth reading.
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mardijker says:
In early times the word “bule” was used to refer to Indians (Mumbia, Delhi) who came to trade in the Indies. John Leyden writes about them and their relationship with the Portuguese in Malaka. It has only been used to refer to caucasians as a specific ethnic group in post-war times. Though I’ve heard Africans being referred to as “bule hitam” which stretches the meaniong further afield.
Londo not only refers to the Dutch. Most indigenous groups in Australia use the word “wolondo” to refer to white settlers.
I spent my youth in Jakarta being known in my area as “Si (nyo) Londo”. It never offfended me. I’m interested to know if the expatriate residents in Jakarta today would find this phrase rude.
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Jaywalker says:
Hi Rob,
I liked your comments most of all. Early November 2008 I am traveling to Jakarta. The first six days I have to stay at a place arranged by the organizers of the conference I am attending. But the next five days or so, I need to stay elsewhere with a friend of mine and Jalan Jaksa looks ideal!
Thanks for the posting. Whether both of us would agree about the place or even like it is beside the point. We will be at a place which has a character…and which is evolving. I will write again in much more detail once I actually go there…
Jay
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Andy says:
Good choice Jay, jaksa has an atmosphere that can’t be matched in too many other places. More than glassy soulless shopping malls. A few good places to eat and drink and the locals there are friendly both the Indos and bules.
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Jay…
Enjoy your travels and the Jaksa experience. You should drop a post into this thread with your observations of the street and beyond. Reading other people’s experiences is always fun and a good way to get some insights on current happenings.
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Anita says:
I am an Indonesian born and bred however I HATE, HATE, HATE the word Bule/London.
We Indonesians tend to take the word for granted and that anyone would be happy if someone’s called by his race/skin color. It is very usual for Indonesians to say casually/jokingly.. “Dasar Arab lo”… or “Dasar Cina lo”… (Oh you typical arab/chinese Indos) but I think it’s very very offensive.
One the reasons is because the word Bule is used very often in touristy places like Bali or Yogya. Whenever I go to a surf shop in Bali, the shopgirls are very casual but when a Caucasian comes in, the shopgirls would chat to one another “Eh ada Bule!” and nudge each other to serve him/her better. I am convinced that although the extra attention may be nice for the Caucasian but it also reinforce that he is a TOURIST and will forever be seen as a TOURIST (even though some Caucasians/mixed people have lived in Indonesia for years) and perhaps they know about Indonesia, geographically and sociologically than ourselves, Indonesians.
Now that I live in England, I am glad that people here are POLITICALLY CORRECT. No one nudge, point, and whisper blatantly “Yellow Asians” when I enter their premise. So those of you Indonesians who think it is comfortable and okay to be called based on your race in a foreign country – THINK AGAIN!
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trixie says:
I never been to jalan jaksa, what’s on there? Hehe. And I’m still confused why most of bule visiting indonesia to get married -_-
Comment on “Jalan Jaksa Under Threat”.
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Hi Ross,
Me too, break that is. Just to whet your appetite, “farrago of mendacity,” is an odd, unclear phrase, designed to impress, but betrays an insecurity as deep as the first foundations of the Carrefour at Jl. Jaksa will be.
Achmad.